The beauty industry is constantly evolving and it’s an incredibly innovative space. In recent years, we have seen innovators building brands on Instagram like Emily Weiss’s Glossier with its army of 990k seriously engaged followers. There are those challenging the beauty industry’s tunnel vision with exciting and disruptive behaviour like Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty with its 40+ foundation shades that got other more established brands in a spin, while others are giving control back to the consumer with transparency over ingredients and cost like Brandon Truaxe’s The Ordinary. So who are the new innovators of 2018—the next generation of great minds in the beauty industry? These are the key players we’re championing.
The Cream and The Rich Cream by Augustinus Bader
Beauty products are often thought up by marketers, designed to fill hypothetical gaps in the market. Professor Augustinus Bader is different. He’s the director and professor of applied stem cell biology and cell technology at the University of Leipzig. His 30 years in research has seen him treat children with disfiguring burns creating scar-free healing. He invented hydrogel Momentum Bionics, which eliminates the need for skin grafts in burns patients. The trouble is that burns aren’t big business, so pharmaceutical companies won’t offer up grants to further Bader’s research, which he wants to use to advance humanity’s healing potential in other areas too. So to fund his research, he has created a do-it-all cream based on his knowledge of stem cells.
Known as the stem cell whisperer, he looks at beauty differently. Where beauty brands add stem cells to skincare, Bader tells me we’re born with an abundance of stem cells, but they become lazy as we age. What we need to do is give them all the ingredients they need to trigger them to behave like young stem cells again. The Cream has all those ingredients and tackles almost every skin concern from acne and rosacea to wrinkles and pigmentation in one bottle. There are no key ingredients—instead it’s comprised of 40 different molecules such as amino acids, vitamins and synthesised substances found naturally in healthy skin, known collectively as TFC8 Trigger Factor Complex, expertly blended to awaken your complexion. “Skin is constantly remodelling, and this cream allows it to remodel differently,” says Bader. “It’s like a toolbox allowing your cells to fix the problems. Stem cells are autonomous in making decisions, and this cream empowers them to make better decisions.”
I’ve been using the cream for just over five weeks and I’ve never had more compliments about my complexion, from “it looks so glowy” to “bloody hell, your skin looks amazing.” It comes in two formulations, The Cream for oily to normal skin and The Rich Cream, with argan oil, avocado and evening primrose oil for those who suffer with dryness. It doesn’t come cheap at £205, however, 10% of the profit is reinvested into Bader’s medical research.
— Amy Lawrenson, editorial director
Dizziak by Loretta De Feo
Yes, the industry’s heavyweight brands are finally getting a bit more clued up on the needs of afro hair, but—quite frankly—they still have a long way to go. But Loretta De Feo isn’t going to wait around for someone to sell her a product that actually delivers the sort of nourishment her half-Nigerian, half-Italian hair requires. Instead, she’s taken matters into her own hands, launching Dizziak, which is (currently) a one-product brand of the hardest-hitting deep conditioner going. It’s designed to ply coarse, textured hair with buckets of hydration (courtesy of quinoa protein, babassu oil, inca inchi and coconut oil) without any weight or grease, and it doesn’t require any heat to activate, as so many of its peers do. It’s even worked wonders on my mixed-race curls, which can always do with a helping hand in the hydration department. Dizziak Deep Conditioner (£22) is available April 2018 from dizziak.com.
— Shannon Peter, deputy editor
The Brow Gal by Tonya Crooks
In an era where identikit microbladed “Insta-brows” are fast becoming the norm, there’s one woman tweezing her way through that noise, spreading the word that brows are made to be different. That woman is Tonya Crooks, the makeup artist who has grown a cult following thanks to her ability to transform any set of brows to their full potential. So highly regarded that she even has Megan Fox, Gwyneth Paltrow and Eva Mendes on her books.
A super-refreshing take on brows, Crooks’ line The Brow Gal offers an impressive selection of products designed to give you your best brows yet—“you” being the operative word here. Crooks strongly believes that there is no uniform decision when it comes to brows—it’s not a one-size-fits-all feature and therefore, the products we use should reflect this. She’s created everything we need to tame or fluff up brows—including colour-adaptive pencils and concealing crayons to help with regrowth—all purposefully made to enhance the natural shape and colour of our brows.
— Alyss Bowen, associate social media editor