When I get complimented on my skin, as if by default I reply, “It’s my foundation, I swear! Underneath, it doesn’t look like this”—which is true. Discoloration and marks left behind from blemishes I should’ve left alone (but definitely didn’t) prevent me from having a buttery complexion—one I’ve always just figured wasn’t in the cards for me. But upon a recent visit to Dr. Neil Schultz’s office in NYC, I was dealt a new hand: After examining my face, he asked his assistant to administer a two-minute glycolic peel, claiming it would brighten up my skin in no time. Truth be told, I’d never received a peel in my life, and the word peel has always sent shivers down my spine (do they really need to use such a physical word?), but sure enough, my skin was glowing after the appointment. It lasted for days (and no actual skin peeling occurred).
After speaking with a number of other dermatologists, the sentiment was almost unanimous: Using glycolic acid is the best and quickest way to even out your skin. I needed to know more about this, so I elicited the help of some top physicians to find out more out about this miracle ingredient. Keep scrolling to read all about it.
“When we do our glycolic peels and show people [their skin] in the mirror right afterwards, they’re shocked,” says Dr. Schultz. “One of the reasons it makes the skin tone so even is because taking off dead cells makes the skin smoother and helps it reflect more light. Also, some of the cells it takes off are cells with too much brown in them, so it cuts down on brown discoloration.”
Dr. Rachel Nazarian of Schweiger Dermatology group agrees, but adds that you can’t forget one key step: “An easy method of achieving even skin is using topical wipes or washes containing glycolic acid or topical vitamins C and E, which minimise the production of melanin, the substance that causes skin darkening, and even out skin tone. But as a must, use sunscreen! At least broad-spectrum SPF 30 daily,” she explains.
If your skin is vexed with redness, glycolic acid won’t, unfortunately, be your saving grace. “Frankly,” explains Dr. Schultz, “It’s not going to help redness most of the time. It helps with tans, browns—it makes your skin brighter. It’s literally an instant glow.” To help remove pesky red blotchiness from broken capillaries, Dr. Hadley King, dermatologist at Skinney Medspa, suggests taking a prescription route: “There is a prescription cream called Mirvaso that works similarly to how Visine works—it takes the red out by temporarily constricting the blood vessels that are causing the red colour. It’s temporary, but the results can be remarkable.” King says you can also try Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) to even out both redness and brown spots. For other causes of redness, like acne-based rosacea and eczema, speak with a dermatologist about the right solutions for you.
Shop some high-performing products with glycolic acid below.
Ed note: Quotes have been edited for content.
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